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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to an anti-aging active complex and a cosmetic product for the skin comprising, comprising at least the following elements: thalassin, prickly pear oil, and hyaluronic acid or salt thereof, and preferably in addition - white lily flower extract, and - spirulina.
    公开号:FR3029417A1
    申请号:FR1462075
    申请日:2014-12-08
    公开日:2016-06-10
    发明作者:Franck Margnat
    申请人:Franck Margnat；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] 1 active complex for a cosmetic product against skin aging. The present invention relates to an active complex called anti-aging having a protective skin effect, in particular regenerating or revitalizing, intended to prevent or fight against skin aging, especially wrinkles, said complex comprising a combination of a plurality of active substances. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a said complex according to the invention and excipients for topical application.
    [0002] The skin includes a superficial layer consisting of the epidermis, and deeper layers forming the dermis. The superficial layer forming the epidermis is mainly composed of keratinocytes (85 to 90% of the epidermal cells). The dermis is thicker and consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans. These three types of molecules are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. The aging of the skin can be natural or caused by the environment, including climatic aggressions, which can notably contribute to accelerate the degradation of the collagen of the dermis, and in particular the exposure to the UV rays of the sun, the variations of temperatures and free radicals. Numerous compositions are known having effects of prevention or fight against aging of the skin, in particular topical compositions based on appropriate plant extracts preferably originating from plants known for their favorable properties in WO 02/060394 and WO 2009/050866. However, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative topical compositions to effectively fight against the effects of skin aging.
    [0003] Hyaluronic acid and its sodium salt are recognized for their moisturizing properties. Spirulina is a micro-alga very rich in proteins, iron, beta-carotene, vitamins, minerals, trace elements; it is known as a dietary supplement with antiseptic properties. Thalassine is a substance extracted from the plant 5 Tripleurosperrnurn Marenurn that helps to relax the muscles of the face and smooth the lines. Prickly pear oil is a very rare oil rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids that has anti-oxidant and anti-radical properties. White lily extract is known for its healing and soothing properties. According to the present invention, it has been sought to provide a new complex of active substances mixture, hereinafter referred to as "active mixture", having an anti-aging skin effect, both in the epidermis with an antioxidant effect, only in the dermis with stimulation of collagen production and a decrease in the enzymes that break down collagen, the dermis being considered as the main seat of the deleterious damage inflicted by aging.
    [0004] The "anti-aging" potential of the active mixtures according to the present invention has been evaluated on human keratinocyte and fibroblast cells exposed to ultraviolet radiation by evaluating their modulatory effects vis-à-vis the photoinduced functional alterations of biological markers. The degree of epidermal oxidation was evaluated by measuring oxidative reactive species (known as "ROS") on HaCaT keratinocytes as a marker for epidermal photoaging. The synthesis and degradation of the extracellular matrix were evaluated by measuring the levels of procollagen I and MMP-1 on NHDF fibroblasts as markers of dermal photoaging. According to the present invention, an anti-aging activity index called "AAC" was determined which is a quantitative parameter of the cutaneous anti-aging potential of a test element taking into account a protective effect at the epidermal level by integrating an anti-aging score. epidermal antioxidant effect and a protective effect at the dermal level by integrating a dermo-protective effect score with respect to collagen synthesis, main marker of the extracellular dermal matrix (ECM) and / or screw with regard to the degradation of metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) which is a collagenase enzyme produced by dermal fibroblasts degrading the extracellular matrix of the dermis (ECM). More precisely, it seeks an ability to oppose to reduce collagen synthesis following UV stress and to oppose the increase in metalloproteinase-1 production to ensure dermal homeostasis. More precisely, according to the present invention, an AAC potential has been defined as follows: AAC == AOE + 1 / 2DPC + 1/2 DPM with [AOE]:% Anti-Oxidant Epidermal Potential defined below. [DPC.]:% Dermo-Protective Collagen potential defined below. [DPM]:% Dermo-Protective Potential MMP1 defined below. AOE =% reduction of ROS after treatment of keratinocyte cells by UV in the presence of the complex according to the invention compared to a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of test complex according to the present invention or other . PCD =% increase in collagen after treatment of the UV NHDF fibroblast cells in the presence of the complex according to the invention compared to a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of a test complex according to the present invention. invention or other. DPM =% decrease in metalloproteinases induced after treatment of UV NHDF fibroblasts in the presence of the complex according to the invention compared with a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of a test complex according to the present invention or other.
    [0005] Another object of the present invention was to provide anti-aging complexes having AAC indices of at least 100, preferably at least 110 with cumulatively: AOE of at least 70, preferably at least 80, and - DPC at least 45, preferably at least 50, and - DPM at least 15, preferably at least 30. To do this, the present invention provides an anti-aging active complex for skin comprising at least the following active ingredients: - thalassin, extracted from Tripleurosperrnurn Marienurn, 10 - prickly pear seed oil, and - hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. More particularly, the complex according to the invention in liquid form comprises: 0.2 to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution of thalassin at 2% by weight of thalassin, 15 to 0.02 to 2% by weight of prickly pear oil, and - 0.02 to 0.2% by weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. Preferably, the complex according to the invention also comprises at least the following active elements: - Lilium candidum white lily flower extract, preferably a hydro glycolic solution of Lilium candidum white lily flower, and - Spirulina, extracted from Spirula Maxima, preferably a hydro glycolic spirulina solution. More particularly, the complex according to the invention in liquid form comprises: - 0.02 to 0.15% by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 5% by weight of said white lily extract, 3029417 5 - 0.002 to 0.05 % by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 1% by weight of spirulina. Even more particularly, the complex according to the invention in liquid form comprises at least: 5 - 1 to 2% by weight of aqueous thalassin solution at 2% by weight of thalassin, - 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of said prickly pear oil, and. 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. Even more particularly, the complex according to the invention in liquid form also comprises at least: - 0.01 to 0.1% by weight hydro glycolic solution containing 5% by weight of said white lily extract, and - 0, 0.1 to 0.1% by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 1% by weight of spirulina. Even more particularly, the complex according to the invention in liquid form comprises: - 1.6% by weight of said thalassin solution - 0.16% by weight of said prickly pear oil - 0.16% by weight of 'hyaluronic acid. More particularly still, in liquid form comprising: - 1.6% by weight of said thalassin solution, - 0.16% by weight of said prickly pear oil, - 0.16% by weight of hyaluronic acid, - 0.06% by weight of said hydro glycol solution of said white lily extract, and - 0.03% by weight of said hydro glycolic solution of spirulina.
    [0006] The present invention also provides a cosmetic or dermatological product comprising a said complex according to the invention in combination with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carriers and / or excipients. Non-cytotoxic effective doses of the various so-called active elements of the complex as defined above will be used. More particularly, an anti-aging cosmetic product according to the invention is formulated for a topical application in the form of gel, lotion, cream, ointment, soap, mask paste. The topical compositions according to the invention may comprise various conventional excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients. Such excipients suitable for formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include, for example, penetration enhancers, moisturizers; thickeners, emollients and surfactants; emulsifiers; preservatives.
    [0007] These topical administration forms are prepared by the known techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely for prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention is formulated in the form of a cream comprising, said elements of said complex and at least the following additional excipients: emulsifying agent, emollient agent, thickening agent, moisturizing agent and agents In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention is formulated in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, as a homogeneous mixture in water, the said elements of the said complex and at least the Additional excipients added: gelling agent, thickening agent, moisturizing agent and preservative and ph adjusting agent.
    [0008] The preparations generally contain other excipients and / or auxiliaries and sometimes other active ingredients, for example dyes, coloring pigments, radical scavengers, perfumes, stabilizing agents. Cosmetic products may also include auxiliaries and sometimes other active ingredients, for example antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin E, vitamin C, antioxidants such as natural polyphenols, enzymes, plant active ingredients, anti-inflammatory substances natural, alcohols, polyols, esters, electrolytes, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, copolymers, phopholipids, dyes; perfumes; or skin scrubbing agents.
    [0009] The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic skin treatment method for combating the signs of skin aging, and in particular the expression wrinkles caused by uncontrolled facial muscle contractions, consisting in applying to the areas of the skin requiring such treatment, a topical cosmetic product according to the invention.
    [0010] Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description of the examples which follow, made in an illustrative and nonlimiting manner. EXAMPLE 1: ANTI-AGES ACTIVE COMPLEXES The cytotoxicity and the anti-aging potential of several complexes (mixtures) of active agents on human cutaneous cells in culture were evaluated below. 1) Various complex mixtures were tested from the following active elements. 1.1) Aqueous solution of thalassin. Thalassine is extracted from the plant Tripleurospermum Maritimum of the family Asteraceae composed of the following elements with the following contents: 3029417 8 - Amino acids: Alanine (10.32%), Glycine (1.64%), Valine (7.14%), Leucine (4.82%) ), IsoLeucine (3.45%), Threonine (2.22%), Proline (23.18%), Asparagine (10.56%), Aspartic acid (12.63 +%), Phenlyalanine (4.64%), Tyrosine (0.92%), - Fructooligosaccharides : fructans at a rate of 0.08% by weight, 5 - Vitamins B5 (0.03x10-3 ° / 0), B6 (33.510-6%), PP (0.27 10-3%), B9 (3.10-6%), - Sugars: fructose (90.5x10-3%), sucrose (32.4x 10-3%), - Minerals: Ca (9.9x10-3%), Mg (4.8x10-3 ° / 0), Na (9.8 x10-3) ° / 0), K (134.9 x 10-3%), Zn (0.05 x 10-3%) and Mn (0.02 x 10-3%). It is an aqueous liquid extract marketed by BIOTECH MARINE 10 (France ZI BP 72 2260 PONTRIEUX) under the reference THALASSINE 2. Such an asset contains the elements listed above at the contents listed in the extract from Tripleurosperrnurn Marenurn above in a content of 2% by weight in solution in water (97.8%) and sorbic acid (0.2% by weight). 1.2) hydro glycolic solution of Fleur de Lys white or candor.
    [0011] The liquid used is marketed by the company IES LABO France 04700 ORAISON) under the reference EH354.This solution is obtained by filtration after long maceration and shaking the plant in a mixture of water and propylene glycol at room temperature. After removal of the plant, such a solution contains% by weight: - 5% of extract of the plant, 20 - 45% of propylene glycol, - 45% of water. The constituents extracted from candidas are lipophilic active agents comprising an essential oil rich in aromatic compounds, phytosterols (spirostane, furostane, beta-sitosterol) and steroidal alkaloids (etioline).
    [0012] Its physicochemical characteristics are: appearance: brown to yellow liquid, density at 20 ° C: 1050 at 1.070 g / cm3, pH = 3.5 at 5.5; refractive index at 20 ° C: 1.68 to 1.410. 1.3) Hydro glycolic solution of spirulina.
    [0013] 5 Spirulina is extracted from a micro-alga found in the lakes of the intertropical belt. It consists essentially of about 50-75% of vegetable proteins, mixed with vitamins A, E, B1, B2, B3, B6, B7, B8, K and beta-carotene, minerals and trace elements such as Ca, P, Mg, Fe, Zn, Cu, Mn, Cr, Na, K, and Se. It is very rich in chlorophyll and phycocyanin. It also includes enzymes including superoxide dismutase (SOD) which contains Fe. Finally, it contains essential fatty acids: omega 6, gamma-linolenic acid in large quantities. The liquid slotion used is a hydroglycolic spirulina solution containing an extract of Spirulina maxima marketed by the company GREENTECH.FRANCE 63360 SAINTBEAUZIRE) under the reference 300656. Such a solution contains in% by weight: 15 - 1% dry extract of Spirulina Maxima - 49.5% water, and - 49.5% butylene glycol. 1.4) Prickly pear seed oil. The prickly pear is a kind of cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica) which produces pips from which an oil rich in vitamin F and alpha-linolenic acid, vitamin E and sterols is extracted. The oil used is marketed by IES LABO France 04700 ORAISON under the reference HV141. This oil is obtained by cold pressing the seeds of the plant originating from Tunisia. The oil contains: 25 - 10 to 14% C 16: 0 palmitic acid; - 1% C 16: 1 palmitoleic acid; 2.5 to 5.5% stearic acid C18: 0; - 20 to 30% oleic acid C18: 1; - 55 to 65% linoleic acid C18: 2, - 1% linolenic acid C18: 3. 1.5) Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan polymer of 102 to 104 KDa consisting of disaccharide units of D-glucuronuic acid and D-N-acetylglucosamine type, the glycoside bonds being alternating: beta 1-4 and beta 1-3. Hyaluronic acid has been used in powder form containing more than 91% by weight of sodium hyaluronate marketed for example by the company SHANDONG FOCUSCHEM BIOTECH CO. LTD, China). It is produced by bacterial fermentation with the bacterium Streptococcus zooepidernicus. 2) CYTOTOXICITY. For each of the above substances, the maximum non-cytotoxic doses corresponding to 90% cell viability (hereinafter "DNC") were determined. Cell viability was evaluated by a Neutral Red (RN) test on human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT line) and fibroblasts described hereinafter after 48h contact. The substances were poured into DMEM + 10% FCS culture medium. RESULTS Test elements DNC (%) by weight THALASSIN 3% solution GLYCOLIC HYDRO FLOWER LILY solution 0.15% GLYCOLIC SPIRULINA HYDRO solution 0.05% BARBARIAN FIGHILE OIL 2% SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER 0.2% 3029417 11 3) ACTIVITY ANTI-AGING. The anti-aging potential of several complexes (mixtures) of active agents on human cutaneous cells in culture was evaluated below. An in vitro experimental approach based on the production of ROS by human epidermal keratinocytes after exposure to UV-B has been proposed to assess the antioxidant potential of the complexes of active mixtures. The dermo-protective effects of the complexes were assessed by measuring the levels of collagen I and MMP-1 on human dermal fibroblasts subjected to UV. Complexes of [CAAL-2], [CAAL-3] and [CAAL-4] mixtures were prepared directly in the culture medium, from the various assets mentioned above, according to the formulas of Table I below with the concentrations in% by weight. TABLE I CAAL-2 CAAL-3 CAAL-3 THALASSIN ANTI-AGE COMPLEX 1.6% 1.6% GLYCOLIC LYS HYDRO SOLUTION 0.06% - 0.06% GLYCOLIC HYDRO SOLUTION 0.03% - 0.03% SPIRULINE BARBARIAN FIGHILE OIL 0.16% 0.16% 0.16% HYALURONIC ACID 0.16% 0.16% - The study was performed on human dermal fibroblasts [NHDF] and HaCaT human keratinocytes.
    [0014] NHDF cells are human dermal fibroblasts in primoculture that have been isolated and are stored and grown in the laboratory. The [NHDF] cells isolated from foreskin skin of young children are cultured in D-MEM (Gibco®) medium supplemented with fetal calf serum (FCS 10%) and antibiotics, according to the techniques implemented in the laboratory. at 37 ° C in a humid atmosphere air-OO2 (95% -5%).
    [0015] HaCaT cells are human keratinocytes derived from an immortalized cell line that is maintained in the laboratory (Normal Keratinization in a Spontaneously Immortalized Aneuploid Human Keratin Cell Cell Line N.E Fusenig, J. Cell Biology; 106, 3029417 12 1988). The HaCaT cells are cultured, in D-MEM medium (Gibco®) supplemented with fetal calf serum (FCS 10%) and antibiotics, at 37 ° C. in an air-OO 2 (95% -5%) atmosphere. The HaCaT and NHDF cells are cultured in 25 or 75 cm2 flasks and are passed regularly before reaching confluence. 5 3.1) EPIDERMAL ANTI-OXIDANT POTENTIAL (hereinafter "AOE"). 3.1.1) The principle of the test is based on the measurement of the degree of intracellular oxidation using the probe: 2 ', 7'-dichloro-dihydrofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). Non-fluorescent DCFH-DA, penetrates by passive diffusion into the cells. After cleavage of acetate groups by esterases, DCFH accumulates at the cytosol level. The oxidation of DCFH by Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) leads to the formation of a fluorescent compound. The fluorescence intensity of DCF makes it possible to evaluate the degree of oxidation of the cells subjected to oxidative stress. More precisely, the measurement of the fluorescence intensities of DCF makes it possible to evaluate the degree of oxidation of the cells subjected to oxidative stress. The DCFH assay detects a wide range of ROS: peroxyl hydroxyl and other ROS (Fluorescence probes used for detection of reactive oxygen species, A. Gomes et al., J. Biochern Biophys Methods, 65: 4580, 2005). HaCaT keratinocytes grown in monolayer are detached by trypsinization. The cell suspension is seeded in 24-well plates. 2 plates are inoculated in parallel: 1 plate [DCFH] (DCFH fluorescence measurement) and 1 plate [Prot] (measurement of cellular proteins). The [DCFH] and [Prot] plates are treated in parallel, identically, according to the following experimental protocol. 72 hours after seeding, the culture medium is removed and replaced with fresh medium containing the test element. The cells are replaced at 37 ° C. and incubated for 24 hours in an air-OO 2 (95% / 5%) atmosphere. After incubation with the test element, the cells were rinsed with HBSS (Hanks solution) and then exposed to UV-B (Philips TL-K 40W ACTINIC BL REFLECTOR tubes) through HBSS. The cells were treated with the various complexes tested before (24h) and after (24h) UV-B irradiation for about 30 minutes at 20 mJ / cm 2.
    [0016] After irradiation, the HBSS is replaced with fresh medium containing the test element. The cells are replaced at 37 ° C. for 24 h in an air-OO 2 (95% / 5%) atmosphere. At the end of the test, the [DCFH] and [Prot] plates are treated in the following manner: [DCFH] plate: The [DCFH] plates are emptied and rinsed with PBS-. The cells are then incubated at 37 ° C in the presence of a solution of DCFH-DA. After incorporation of the probe, the cells are rinsed with PBS-. Extraction buffer (Triton X-100 1%) is added to each well. After 45 minutes of incubation, the lysates are removed and transferred to 96-well plates. The fluorescence intensities (-Exc: 485 nm, -Em: 535 nm) are expressed in relative fluorescence unit (URF). Plaque [Prot]: A protein assay (BCA Protein assay) is performed in parallel in order to correct the values [DCFH] (URF / well) as a function of the rate of cellular proteins (pg / well) to overcome a variation in the number of cells related to an effect of the test element on cell growth. 3.1.2) Results The test was carried out on HaCaT keratinocytes (strain HaCaTp91) grown in medium [DMEM + 1% FCS]. The degree of intracellular oxidation was measured after treatment and irradiation of the cells. The 3 blends of mixtures named CAAL-2, CAAL-3 and CAAL-4 were tested including the concentrations of different active agents indicated in Table I above. Vitamin E (Tocopherol, 1mM) was tested in parallel as a positive control.
    [0017] The degree of intracellular oxidation (URF / well, URF (RFU): relative fluorescence unit (relative fluorescence unit) recorded in the control and treated cultures was corrected according to the average rate of cellular proteins (μg / well). The values [DCFH] are expressed in arbitrary units (from optical density): [DCFH] = 5 (URF / pg prot) The data are recorded in Table II The results (mean +/- variance) type, n = 3) are collected in the table below The "stat" values p obtained by the student t test are less than or equal to 0.01 Table DCFH ASSAY ROS induced by Stat II UV (- ) UV Control 1 12.80 +/- 0.99 (%) Control 2 134.12 +/- 2.23 121.32 100% [CAAL-2] 18.12 +/- 0.96 5.32 4% g0.01 (+) UV [CAAL-3] 45.31 + / - 4.81 32.51 27% pS0.01 [CAAL-4] 74.31 +/- 4.23 61.51 61% pS0.01 VE 35.72 +/- 2.66 22.92 19% g0.01 The exposure of control cells to UVB results in a very high level of net increase the degree of intracellular oxidation. The basal rate of ROS (non-irradiated cultures: control 1) is multiplied by 10.5 after UV exposure of the cells (control 2). The results show that the treatment of the cells by [CAAL-2], [CAAL-3] and [CAAL-4] makes it possible to very clearly reduce the UV-induced ROS ([ROSUV]) compared to a control (control 2) having undergone the same UV treatment but in the absence of test complex according to the present invention or other. It should be noted that the epidermal antioxidant potential varies according to the mixture considered as follows: - CAAL-2: AOE = 96% reduction of [ROSUV] 20 - CAAL-3: AOE = 73% reduction of [ROSUV] - CAAL -4: AOE = 39% reduction of [ROSUV] 3029417 AOE =% reduction of ROS induced after treatment of keratinocyte cells by UV in the presence of the complex according to the invention compared with a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of a test complex according to the present invention or the like. The differences recorded at the CAAL-2, CAAL-3 and CAAL-4 batches are statistically significant with respect to the (+) UV (p <), 01, Student's t test. The maximum antioxidant effect is recorded with [CAAL-2], which almost completely opposes the UV-induced oxidative stress. Under the same experimental conditions, the treatment of HaCaT cells with Vitamin E (-Tocopherol, 1mM) makes it possible to reduce UV-induced oxidative stress by 81%. 3.2) DERMO-PROTECTIVE POTENTIAL. 3.2.1) The principle of the test is based on the evaluation of 2 parameters - neosynthesis of collagen I and production of MMP-1 - on human fibroblasts [NHDF] grown in the absence or presence of the test element, and stimulated by the UV-A.
    [0018] The level of pro-collagen I is quantified by assaying [PIP] (Procollagen type I Peptide) in the incubation media using an ELISA test. The measurement of the level of MMP-1 is carried out on the incubation media using an Elisa test. [NHDF] fibroblasts are detached from their support by trypsinization. After counting, the cell suspension is seeded in 24-well plates at a rate of 1 × 10 5 cells / well, in medium [D-MEM + 10% FCS]. After 24h incubation, the culture medium is removed and replaced by new medium supplemented with 1% FCS, free of ascorbic acid and containing the product (s) under study. The cells are returned to the oven and incubated for 24 hours in an air-OO 2 (95% / 5%) atmosphere.
    [0019] After incubation with the test solutions, the cells were rinsed with HBSS and then exposed to UV-A (Philips TL-K 40W ACTINIC BL REFLECTOR tubes) through HBSS.
    [0020] UV-A irradiation is about 103 / cm 2 for 1 hour. After irradiation, the HBSS is replaced by new medium containing the test element. The cells are replaced at 37 ° C. and incubated for 24 hours. At the end of the test, the culture incubation media are removed and frozen at -20 ° C pending the assay of procollagen I and MMP-1. In parallel, the cell mats are rinsed with HBSS and treated for a cellular protein assay (BCA Protein assay). A solution of NaOH (0.1N) is added to each well. After incubation, the extracts are removed and transferred to a 96-well plate. 200 μl of BCA reagent are added to each well. After incubation, the absorbance (optical density) is measured at 570 nm with a microplate reader. The procollagen I assay in the samples is carried out with an ELISA (Procollagen Type I C-Peptide EIA R & D Systems® Laboratory Kit, France) test for fluorescence detection and quantification of the C-terminal peptide of human procollagen I. The MMP-1 activity is measured with an ELISA test (Human Active MMP-1 from 15 R & D Systems laboratories, FRANCE) for fluorescence detection and quantification of the MMP-1 activity. In both cases the quantification of the fluorescence is done in the culture supernatants, according to the instructions provided by the R & D Systems® laboratories, France, the absorbance being measured at 450 nm. 3.2.2) Results. The test was carried out on [NHDF] fibroblasts (strain F06.2H7) grown in medium [DMEM + 1% FCS], in the absence of sodium ascorbate. Procollagen I and MMP-1 levels were measured in the culture supernatants after treatment and irradiation of the cells.
    [0021] The NHDF cells were treated with the CAAL-2, CAAL-3 and CAAL-4 test complexes before (24h) and after (24h) UVA irradiation. The mixtures were tested at the concentration indicated in Table I above. Vitamin E (-tocopherol, 1mM, hereinafter "VE") and Na ascorbate (50 μg / ml), hereinafter "ASC", were tested in parallel as positive controls. The c-terminal peptide concentrations of procollagen I [PIP] and metalloproteinase-1 [MMP-1] in the different samples (ng / ml) were corrected according to the protein concentrations of the corresponding wells. The results (mean +/- standard deviation, n = 3) are collected in Table III below. The dermo-protective potential is here determined by 1/2 DPC + 1/2 DPM with: DPC =% increase in collagen after UV treatment of NHDF fibroblast cells in the presence of the complex according to the invention with respect to a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of test complex according to the present invention or other; and - DPM =% decrease in metalloproteinase-1 after treatment of UV NHDF fibroblasts in the presence of the complex according to the invention compared with a control having undergone the same UV treatment in the absence of test complex according to the present invention Or other.
    [0022] Table III [PIP] (%) Stat [MMP-1] (%) Stat (-) UV Control 1 2.21 + / 0.011 160% 0.052 + / 0.001 21% Control 2 1.38 + / 0.012 100% 0.248 + / 0.002 100 % (+) UV [CAAL-2] 2.13 + / 0.011 154% pS0.01 0.201 + / 0.002 81% g0.01 [CAAL-3] 2.02 + / 0.002 146% pS0.01 0.167 + / 0.001 67% g0. 01 3029417 18 [CAAL-4] 1.70 + / 0.033 123% pS0.01 0.266 + / 0.003 107% g0.01 [AUC] 50pg / m1 3.36 + / 0.016 243% pS0.01 -t [VE] 1mM - 0.172+ / - 69% g0.01 a) Procollagen I. The UVA irradiation (20J / cm2) induces a clear decrease (-38% = (160-100 / 160)) of the procollagen synthesis 5 Under the experimental conditions selected, the [CAAL-2], [CAAL-3] and [CAAL-4] test complexes all induce a significant increase in [PIP], which varies according to the complex considered compared with a control that has not undergone the same UV treatment but in the absence of test complex according to the present invention or the like. The greatest increase is recorded with [CAAL-2] which is capable of completely restoring the synthesis of UV-depressed procollagen I. The 3 complexes tested can be classified according to the dermoprotective potential for collagen (CPD) as follows: CAAL-2] (DPC = + 54%)> [CAAL-3] (CPD = + 46%) "[CAAL-4] (DPC = + 23%) Under the same experimental conditions, sodium ascorbate ([ASC], 50 μg / ml) is capable of restoring the neosynthesis of collagen I depressed by UV radiation. with a CPD score = 143%. b) MMP-1. The UVA exposure of NHDF cells results in a very large increase in MMP-1.
    [0023] The test elements [CAAL-2] and [CAAL-3] induce a significant decrease in MMP-1. The maximum effect is recorded after [CAAL-3] treatment with DPM = 33% MMP-1 reduction.
    [0024] On the other hand, the [CAAL-4] mixture does not show any significant dermo-protective effect. The 3 complexes tested can be classified according to the dermoprotective potential with respect to MMP-1, as follows : CAAL-3] (DPM = + 34 ° / 0)> [CAAL-2] (DPM = + 19%) "[CAAL-4] (DPM, '40 / 0) 5 Under the same experimental conditions, Vitamin E (VE, 1mM) reduced the level of UV-induced MMP-1 with a DPM score of 31%. 4) CUTANEOUS ANTI-AGING POTENTIAL (hereinafter "AAC"). The cutaneous anti-aging potential (AAC) was calculated from the experimental data according to: 10 [AAC] = [AOE] + 1/2. [DPC] + 1/2. [DPM] with: [AOE] :% potential Antioxidant Epidermal defined above. [DPC.]:% Dermo-Protective Collagen potential defined above. [DPM.]:% Dermo-Protective Potential MMP1 defined above.
    [0025] The results of the 3 mixtures tested are collected below. - CAAL-2: AOE = 96%, DPC = 54%, DPM = 19, AAC = 132.5 ° / 0; - CAAL-3: AOE = 73%, DPC = 46%, DPM = 34%, AAC = 113%; - CAAL-4: AOE = 39, DPC = 23, DPM = 0, AAC = 50.5; The positive controls VE and ASC are reference molecules for each compartment: ASC for the epidermal compartment and VE for the dermal compartment. Nevertheless, if one calculates their indices [A.A.C], one obtains for VE: [AAC] = 96.5 and for ASC [AAC] = 71.5. (VE: AOE = 81%, DPC = 0, DPM = 31%, AAC = 96.5% and AUC: A0E = 0, DPC = 143%, DPM = 0, AAC = 71.5%). Under the experimental conditions selected, the results of the study indicate that the 3 complexes show a significant anti-aging potential which varies considerably according to the complex under consideration. The results make it possible to classify, according to the anti-aging potential, the 3 complexes in the following way: CAAL-2]> [CAAL-3] "[CAAL-4 On the basis of the biomarkers retained (ROS, pro-collagen and MMP-1), and given their important role in the skin aging process, the ability of the [CAAL-2] complex, on the one hand, to modulate the production of ROS at the epidermal level and, on the other hand, to stimulate the neo-synthesis of collagen and reduce the production of MMPs at the dermal level appears very favorable and allows to conclude the highest anti-aging activity sought.
    [0026] The [CAAL-2] mixture with a [AAC] of 132.5 has the highest score of the 3 mixtures tested. The interest of the CAAL-2 and CALL-3 complexes is the anti-aging efficacy at the level of the 2 epidermal and dermal skin compartments on the one hand and with regard to the dermis both an increase in collagen and a decrease in metalloproteinase-1. EXAMPLE 2: COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION 1) CREAM A cream was prepared from the CAAL-2 active mixture of the following composition: COMMERCIAL NAME INCI NAME SUPPLIER% by weight PURIFIED WATER 78.69% DISODIUM EDTA 0.10000 GLYCERIN 5,00000 SENSIVA ®SC 50 ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERINE Seppic (France) 0,20000 EMULIUM DELTA® CETYL ALCOHOL and GLYCERYL STEARATE and PEG-75 STEARATE and CETETH-20 and STEARETH20 Gattefossé (France) 5,00000 LANETTE® 16 CETYLIC ALCOHOL Cognis -BASF 1,00000 BARBARIE FIGHTING OIL IeS Labo (France) 0.16000 MYRITOL ®318 TRIGLYCERIDE Cognis-BASF (France) 7.00000 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIQUE 3029417 21 ARISTOFLEX ® AVC COPOLYMER 0.50000 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL LAURATE / AMMONIUM VP ( France) THALASSINE 2 AQUATIC SOLUTION OF THALASSIN-2 BIOTECH 1.60000 MARINE (France) PHENOXYETHANOL 0.30000 CHLORPHENESINE 0.20000 HYDRO GLYCOLIC SOLUTION OF LYS IeS Labo (France) 0.06000 SPIRULINE HS HYDRO GLYCOLIC SOLUTION SPIRULINE GREENTECHr (France) 0.03000 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.16000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 10% pH 5.67 100.00000 The procedure was followed comprising the following steps: a) In a mixer heated to 80 ° C: - PURIFIED WATER, 5 - EDTA (preservative), and - CHLORPHENESINE (preservative). b) Mix and introduce the mixture: GLYCERINE (moisturizing agent), SODIUM HYALURONATE, c) Disperse with stirring for 30 minutes in a melter in which was introduced and heated to 75 ° C: EMULIUM DELTA® (agent) emulsifier), - LANETTE ®16 (emollient), and - MYRITOL® 318 (emollient). D) Introduce the contents of the melter into the mixer and add: - BARBARIE FIG OIL, and - ARISTOFLEX® AVC (thickening agent) e) Homogenize for 10 minutes and cool to 50 ° C and then incorporate: 3029417 22 - PHENOXYETHANOL ( preservative), and - SENSIVA® SC 50 (preservative). f) Homogenize and introduce: - HYDRO GLYCOLIC SOLUTION OF LYS 5 - HYDRO ALCOHOLIC SOLUTION OF SPIRULINE - THALASSINE SOLUTION 2 g) Homogenize 10 minutes at 25 ° C and adjust the pH to 5,67 with a solution of soda (NaOH) at 10%. 2) AQUEOUS GEL A gel was prepared from the CAAL-2 active mixture of the following composition: COMMERCIAL NAME INCI NAME SUPPLIER% by weight PURIFIED WATER 91.79000 ULTREZ ®10 CARBOMERE Lu brizol (Fa nce) 0.20000 GLYCERINE GLYCERIN 5,00000 GEOGARD ® GLUCONOLACTONE, CALCIUM GLUCONATE, SODIUM BENZOATE Lonza (CH °) 0,50000 JAGUAR® 105 HP HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR Rhodia (France) 0,30000 TRIETHANOLAMINE TRIETHANOLAMINE Interchimie (France) 0,20000 BARBARIE FIG OIL I labo (France) 0.16000 THALASSIN SOLUTION 2 Biotech ma rine (France) 1.60000 HYDROGLYCOLIC FLOWER SOLUTION OF LYS I labo (France) 0.06000 HYDROGLYCOLIC SOLUTION SPIRULINE HS Greentech (France) 0.03000 SODIUM HYALURONATE Bioph The above gel composition was prepared following the procedure comprising the following steps. a) preparation of a phase A Sprinkle ULTREZ ®10 (gelling agent) in a portion of water and let stand 20 minutes. B) preparation of a phase B - In a mixer heat the glycerine (moisturizing agent) with a portion of water at 60 ° C and dissolve GEOGARD® ULTRA (preservative); - Add SODIUM HYALURONATE and disperse with stirring for 5 minutes, and - at 40 ° C add JAGUAR® 105 HP (thickening agent) and homogenize. c) Mixing of the two phases A and B. - Add phase A to phase B with stirring and let stand for 40 minutes, 10 - Neutralize (Ph = 7) with TRIETHANOLAMINE (pH adjuster), and - Introduce: the 4 active ingredients LILY FLOWER SOLUTION, SPIRULINA SOLUTION, THALASSIN 2 SOLUTION and BARBARIAN FIGHILE OIL; - Homogenize 10 minutes. 15
    权利要求:
    Claims (10)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Anti-aging active complex for the skin comprising at least the following elements: thalassin, extracted from Tripleurospermum Maritimum, prickly pear seed oil, and hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.
    [0002]
    2. Complex according to claim 1 in liquid form comprising: 0.2 to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution of thalassin at 2% by weight of thalassin; 0.02 to 2% by weight of fig oil of barbarism, and - 0.02 to 0.2% by weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.
    [0003]
    3. Complex according to one of claims 1 or 2 further comprising at least the following elements: - white lily flower extract Lilium candidum, preferably a hydro glycolic solution of white lily flower Lilium candidum, and - spirulina, extracted from Spirula Maxima, preferably a hydro glycolic solution of spirulina.
    [0004]
    4. A complex according to claim 3 in liquid form comprising - 0.02 to 0.15% by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 5% by weight of said white lily extract. - 0.002 to 0.05% by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 1% by weight of spirulina.
    [0005]
    5. Complex according to one of claims 1 to 4 in liquid form comprising at least: 25 - 1 to 2% by weight of aqueous thalassin solution at 2% by weight of thalassin, - 0.1 to 0.2% by weight weight of said prickly pear oil, and 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof.
    [0006]
    6. Complex according to one of claims 1 to 5 in solution liquid further comprising at least: - 0.01 to 0.1% by weight hydro glycolic solution containing 5% by weight of said white lily extract, and 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of hydro glycolic solution containing 1% by weight of spirulina.
    [0007]
    7. Complex according to one of claims 1 to 6 in liquid form comprising: - 1.6% by weight of said thalassin solution 10 - 0.16% by weight of said prickly pear oil - 0.16 mg / ml of hyaluronic acid.
    [0008]
    8. Complex according to claim 7 in liquid form comprising: - 1.6% by weight of said thalassin solution, - 0.16% by weight of prickly pear oil, - 0.16% by weight of acid hyaluronic acid, 0.06% by weight of said hydro glycol solution of said white lily extract, and 0.03% by weight of said hydro glycolic solution of spirulina.
    [0009]
    9. Cosmetic or dermatological product comprising a said complex according to one of claims 1 to 8 in combination with carriers and / or excipients cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable.
    [0010]
    10. anti-aging cosmetic product according to claim 9 characterized in that it is formulated for topical application in the form of gel, lotion, cream, ointment, soap, mask paste.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3102181B1|2018-07-04|
    EP3102181A1|2016-12-14|
    FR3029417B1|2017-01-06|
    US20180140537A1|2018-05-24|
    WO2016092179A1|2016-06-16|
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    法律状态:
    2015-11-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-06-10| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20160610 |
    2016-11-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-12-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-10-05| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-10-16| ST| Notification of lapse|Effective date: 20200906 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1462075A|FR3029417B1|2014-12-08|2014-12-08|ACTIVE COMPLEX FOR A COSMETIC PRODUCT AGAINST SKIN AGING|FR1462075A| FR3029417B1|2014-12-08|2014-12-08|ACTIVE COMPLEX FOR A COSMETIC PRODUCT AGAINST SKIN AGING|
    PCT/FR2015/053247| WO2016092179A1|2014-12-08|2015-11-27|Active complex for a skin anti-ageing cosmetic|
    US15/306,544| US20180140537A1|2014-12-08|2015-11-27|Active complex for a cosmetic product against skin ageing|
    EP15807961.6A| EP3102181B1|2014-12-08|2015-11-27|Active complex for a skin anti-ageing cosmetic|
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